North to Alaska: August 2013

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Day 17

Welcome! Day 17/18 (Aug 25/26) of North to Alaska

Quote. “Education is a lifelong journey whose destination expands as you travel.”

Although I was awoken at 1 AM I still awoke around six as I normally do. We had discussed the night before that we (I) would like to be on the road by 8:30. So I finished packing the car with everything I could. So things had to wait for Cassie. She began to move around 7:15. Once I had the car packed we went to the café which opened at 7 AM. Café had coffee and frozen breakfast sandwiches. Cassie got her coffee and sausage and egg sandwich that was enough for her. I had a diet coke and chocolate chip muffin. We were on the road by 8:55. I considered this to be good. This was our coldest morning the temp was around 28 degrees. It felt good. By the time we reached Fairbanks it was in lower 40s.

We made it into Fairbanks around 10:00 and stopped for gas. 3.919 per gallon. We got some snacks and headed toward Denali. Seemed like we immediately began ascending into the mountains. The scenery was breathtaking. It was a clear day. We saw many snowcapped peaks but it was about one and one half hours before we saw Mount McKinley. We stopped several times and finally got a couple of decent pictures. We learned it is better viewed from the south.

We stopped in Denali for lunch and to explore the various centers while we had our car. Next week when we return we will be limited to where the shuttle wants to take us. Denali is not very big like most towns in Alaska but it had a good bit of activity in the middle of the day. After a few hours of looking we again headed south toward Anchorage. We did have two long construction delays. It was after six when we finally arrived at our hotel.

Anchorage is the largest town in Alaska with nearly 300,000 population. It has most major stores. Looks a lot different than in 1996 when I was last here. It seems not to fit with the rest of Alaska which is made up of mostly small communities.

Monday we had planned it to be laundry day. After some exercise in the exercise room and then some breakfast it was. We did four loads of laundry and repacked our bags for the coming week as we depart tomorrow by train south to Steward then to Fox Island. After a few other overnight stops, I will write about them later as they happen we return to anchorage on 8/30 to leave again on 8/31 returning to Denali then after a few days on to Fairbanks. On 9/6 we again return to Anchorage. We can’t take everything on the train so we packed for the south trip, the Denali trip and the Fairbanks trip. This was tough on Cassie as she had to make some decisions as we are limited on how much luggage we can take on each leg of our trip.

Later in the day after some sightseeing in Anchorage, Cassie was able to talk with both the girls and some of the grandkids. I even talked with a couple of the grandkids. All is well.

Stop north of Denali

Mount McKinley

South of Denali

Day 16

Welcome! Day 16 (Aug 24) of North to Alaska

Quote. “Living on Earth is expensive, but it does include a free trip around the sun every year.”

I awoke around six as I normally do. I did not look for the Resort’s exercise room, but instead looked at my sheet and did a few upper and lower body exercises. I would have never thought just stretching and bending would make me so tired. But it did. So at seven when the pool and hot tubs opened I wandered over to the pool area and showed my pass. Not many people there at seven. The indoor tubs are kept around 100 to 102 degrees warm while the Rock Pool, outdoors is between 102 and 107, it is for adults only, since it is deeper and hotter than most hot tubs. The outside temp was in the lower 40s so I stayed in the inside hot tubs. After about thirty minutes I got out of the tub and sat around the pool and read until other people began showing up. It was just too chilly to sit outside. So around eight I went back to the room and found Cassie was getting up. So we went and had a pretty good breakfast.

We returned to the room and I decided I would take a nap while Cassie read another book. First daytime nap I have had since beginning this trip. It felt good so I guess I needed it.

About 12 we decided to explore the grounds. We discovered their garden which had very large onions both red and white. Large squash and what looked like raspberries and several rows of new potatoes. We then found their greenhouse where they seem to grow all of the vegetables they use in the restaurant. The growing season is short but they do produce large quantities.

We then walked over to the reindeer pens and watched them for a while.

We had a lite lunch, grilled cheese for me and soup for Cassie. Cassie wanted some of their homemade desserts later in the day.

While Cassie had her dessert I again entered the hot tub. This time I ventured into the Rock Pool. It was warmer than the inside so I only stayed for about 15 minutes. It did feel good.

Cassie had put our name down to be awoken if the northern lights were visible during the night, about 1 AM we were awoken. We did see the lights but they were not real bright. Hopefully we will see then again either on our trip to the Arctic Circle or when we travel on the ‘Top of the World” Road in Canada on our way back.

Tomorrow we head toward Anchorage. Mountains here we come.

Rock Pool (Hot Springs)

Rock Pool 2

Geese Eating

Cassie in Garden

Reindeer

Northern Lights (Not a very good picture)

Day 15

Welcome! Day 15 (Aug 23) of North to Alaska

Quote. “If I was stranded on a desert island and I could only bring one thing, I would bring Dora. That girl has everything in that backpack.”

The old saying that 'lightning never strikes the same place twice' is probably a myth. This morning I proved that the same senior moment can be repeated. Click… Click… Click. Dora would have certainly helped. After I got a jump I went straight to the Napa store (Yes Tok has a Napa store) and purchased an emergency battery pack for jump starting a car. I can’t say it will not happen again, but I can say I am now ready if it does.

While I will not complain about the weather, it has been great for most all of our trip, today it was not. Overcast with rain throughout the entire day. I could not take many pictures of the scenery but did take a few at the end of the Alaska Highway.

Cassie had breakfast at the hotel buffet while I was attending to the automobile. I filled the car with gas and finished packing so when Cassie was done we headed north toward Fairbanks. About a 100 miles before Fairbanks we entered Delta Junction which claims to be the actual end to the Alaska Highway since the road from Delta to Fairbanks was already in place when the Alaska Highway was built back in 1942 before I was born. I did take some pictures, you can see them below. We did go on into Fairbanks and travel around town for a little while before heading out to Chena Hot Springs Resort which is on the Chena Hot Springs Road. The road is actually very good. Fifty six miles long without much on it. Once it reached Chena Hot Springs Resort the road is no more.

The word Resort makes me think of many nice things none of which I would relate to Chena Hot Springs. Cassie said the place reminds her more of church camp. Built years ago with small rooms and tiny bathrooms. Each room had two double beds with little room to walk. But for the outdoorsmans the place has many things to offer several hiking trails, horseback riding, ATV riding, and of course the Hot Springs. And of course a large RV and camping area.

We are in the back country, no cell service and no internet. TV has only 8 channels via satellite. It does have a restaurant on site with a limited menu but provided large portions.

We are here for two nights remember Resort. Let us see what we do tomorrow.

Overcast Day Outside of Tok

End of Alaska Highway

Facts of Alaska Highway

Cross roads of America Similar to Beginning sign

Thursday, August 22, 2013

Day 14

Welcome! Day 14 (Aug 22) of North to Alaska

Quote. “Travel becomes a strategy for accumulating photographs.” Susan Sontag

Last night we stayed at The Raven Hotel in Haines Junction. This was a very nice hotel, excellent in many area. No exercise room and the view was its only short comings. Not sure why anyone would come to Haines Junction, but if you do, I recommend staying at The Raven Hotel.

We got on the road about 9:30 heading toward Alaska on the Alaska Highway. The “Guide” said this would be the slowest part of the trip due to the road conditions. There is a condition called prema frost which causes havoc to roads. Prema frost creates cracks and bumps in the roads. Most of the road had been redone but we had about 40 miles of the prema frost effect. Also the last 50 miles or so was under construction. With about 10 miles to go the road became one way and we had to wait about 15 minutes which caused a backup to occur with 7 cars/RVs in front of us. This caused a slowdown getting thru customs since only one agent was manning the gate.

There were few clouds as we left Haines Junction we allowed us to see the mountains in all their glory. All day while in Canada we traveled in a valley between some majestic mountains, many were snowcapped.

For lunch you guessed it we stopped at Buckshot Betty’s Bakery & Café in Beaver Creek. This appeared to be the only place in town open. The food was good and the bathroom worked. We were happy.

Once we entered Alaska the road was much better but the scenery became less majestic. We made it to Tok and are staying at the Westmark Hotel. I think Tok is even smaller than Haines Junction but it is at a major crossroads so it has several gas stations and a few hotels and at least one eating place not in a hotel. We had super at “Fast Eddies Restaurant”. The selection and food was good and the place was busy.

We will be staying in Alaska for a little over three weeks before heading back thru Tok on the way to ‘Top of the World Road’ in Canada. Clock wise we are three hours behind Texas time.

Tomorrow on to Fairbanks and the end of the Alaska Highway.

On road as we were leaving Haines Junction

From road traveling to Alaska

From road while traveling to Alaska

At rest stop in Canada

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Day 13

Welcome! Day 13 (Aug 21) of North to Alaska

Quote. Age is relative…When you’re over the hill…You pick up speed. Red Dirt Shirt

The hotel room was nice. We had an excellent view of the bay. We slept well. But the breakfast was lacking, warm coffee and cold bagel. In fairness Cassie had planned to sleep in (I have trained her that sleeping in is getting up at 8:00) and we were to go out for breakfast even before I saw the warm coffee and cold bagel. We had problems last night finding a place for dinner, this morning we had equally hard time finding a place for breakfast. We located two places which said they served breakfast starting at 7 but at 8:30 they were both closed. We went to Fort Steward hotel which had a restaurant attached. They only served dinner, we should have stopped last night. But they were nice and recommended a hole-in-wall place called Sara’s. This turned out to be very nice. We each got a breakfast sandwich, Cassie got some fancy Latté coffee and I got old fashion Hot Chocolate. This was mostly a to-go place but they had one table which we shared with a couple from California, which were vacationing by ferry. They took the ferry (no car) from one port to the next and stayed a few days then moved to the next port. Sara’s was a good find.

We finally got on the road about 9:30, I had filled the tank with gas while Cassie still slept. The road was excellent with no traffic. I think a couple of cars passed me and I passed three large trucks. According to AAA and Cassie the road was very scenic. If you have seen AAA maps the scenic roads have dots alongside the road, Cassie always picks these out (Of course this time she had no choice, it is the only road out of Haines). We went up and down and around many curves. It had mountains with snow on top and rivers with water. I stopped several times and took some pictures. It actually was a very easy and relaxing drive.

The mileage was about 160 miles so we made it in about three and half hours. We had to give back the hour we gained yesterday so clock wise it was about four and a half hours. We arrived in Haines Junction about 2:30 and had lunch at the Frozen Freeze. Haines Junction has about 800 people with several places to eat and stay. It has at least two gas stations. After checking in to our room we drove around for about 20 minutes and saw the entire town. For supper we got some food from the local bakery, you know every little town has one. Cassie got a pot pie and I got a cheese bread pepperoni dog. Both were good.

Tomorrow back to Alaska.

Same picture as day before without rainbow

From Haines Highway

From our Hotel room

Day 12

Welcome! Day 12 (Aug 20) of North to Alaska

Quote. I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move.
Robert Louis Stevenson

I do not have internet access today so this will be published tomorrow. I was able to check email by using the computer in the lounge but am not allowed to upload using it.

Today we left beautiful Atlin, BC heading toward Haines, AK via Skagway AK and utilizing the Alaska Marine Highway (Ferry System) between Skagway and Haines. We drove out of Atlin on the same road we had traveled into Atlin. The part of the road in BC was mostly gravel with a few spots of pavement. Once we entered Yukon Territory the road was much better. As coming in we encountered very little traffic but saw the same wonderful scenery. We were on route 7 and when we reached route 8 to head back to the Alaska Highway and then onto route 2 toward Skagway, we saw a sign pointing west toward route 2 and then onto Skagway. So we turned left instead of right. This saved us about an hour drive time not that we needed it since we also gained an hour when entering Alaska. Needless to say we arrive in Skagway a couple of hours ahead of plan.

Once we entered Alaska on route 2 we should have been able to look across the valley and see the wonderful train taking tourist from the ships up the valley to Canada. Unfortunately we were in a cloud that descended onto the valley. At times we could only see about 100 feet in front of the car. To make things worst we were behind a group of bicyclist from one of the ships. Once we got low enough we did see across the valley and saw were the train had been, the trains were well past us but we saw its tracks. Later in the day we did see the train in town as the afternoon groups were loading for their trek up the mountain. We saw 4 large ships. This is normal for the sailing season.

Once we arrived, we checked into the ferry and then walked around downtown, each side of the street. We ate lunch at the same café we did last summer when we were on the cruise. They must have remembered me as we were sat immediately upon entering the café, no waiting. After lunch Cassie did look in the Christmas store. She has a very hard time passing a Christmas store without looking.

Since we were back in USA our cell phone seemed to work so Cassie did call Pam and got an update on her status. All seems to be ok. I was also able to text my two twelve year old grandkids.

The ferry ride was nice not packed, but very chilly when outside in the wind. We did see a whale but only briefly, not enough time for me to get my camera ready. I did take some pictures of the scenery.

Haines is not too big so we found our hotel ok. After check in we drove around town looking for a place to eat. We did have trouble finding a good place to eat. We found a bakery, every little town seems to have one, and got a pastry each and then ate for our snack box. Cassie had a left over half of a tuna sandwich from lunch and I had some cereal. We had plenty.

We watched some TV and went to bed.

Looking forward to tomorrow, back to Canada for one night.

On route 2 in Canada

Skagway

Holland Ship from Ferry

Windy Cassie barely able to move

The girl watching for Whales

From Ferry Where we are heading

From Ferry where we have been

From Hotel room

From Ferry who can pass up a waterfall

Monday, August 19, 2013

Day 10_11

Welcome! Day10/11 (Aug 18/19) of North to Alaska

Quote. “Too often travel, instead of broadening the mind, merely lengthens the conversation.” – Elizabeth Drew

I am combining day 10 and 11 since we did little except sightseeing.

Sunday on to Atlin today, the “Switzerland of the North”. Atlin is a former mining town from the 1898 gold strike. In its heyday about 10,000 people occupied Atlin. They arrived from traveling by boat to Alaska then across mountains and thru several lakes. The road to Atlin was not created until 1950. Even today the road is part gravel. Atlin British Columbia is unique in that it can only be reached from the Yukon Territory. One road in about 62 miles from Alaska Highway and the same road out.

Four years ago the population was down to about 450. Today it is estimated to be 250. While the town in going downhill the area is still very beautiful.

The trip from Nugget City was very uneventful but a pleasant drive. First 3 hours was on Alaska Highway the next two was on the road leading to Atlin. There was little traffic on the Alaska Highway and even less going to Atlin. The hotel we are in is located on the Atlin Lake.

On Monday morning we drove down as far as the road would allow. We saw several camp sites along the lake. The road was gravel. A grader was active today. This reminded me of my early years as we lived on a gravel road in south Tarrant County. When the road was graded for little kids it was a site to see.

There are three places to eat in town each has a limited menu. Today we ate at all three. Only one has breakfast so we ate there for breakfast. Another opened at 11 for lunch so we had a hot dog there. The hotel we are at opens their bar at 5 and serves food. We had fish for supper and it was good. Of course none of the places were busy. We were told that 4 years ago there were 7 places serving food.

We also heard that while the post office is open 5 days a week mail is only delivered three days a week. It is shipped in from Whitehorse YT. Yukon has a holiday today so no mail was delivered. No mail was delivered so the post office here was closed. Also the town has one gas station connected to one of the cafes. There is also one general store. The school had 8 students last year but 40 this year.

In the afternoon we just relaxed and rested. It felt good. The low this morning was 44 the high was in the low 60s.

Tomorrow on to Alaska for one night via Skagway and Haines.

Longest bridge on Alaska Hwy at Teslin

Across lake from our hotel

From in front of our hotel Sunday evening

Sunset from hotel

Same view as above Monday morning

On Monday excursion Atlin Lake

On Monday excursion across lake

Trusty grader and road

Plan taking off in from of hotel

Day 09

Welcome! Day9 (Aug 17) of North to Alaska

We are in Atlin hopefully this post will go thru Wi-Fi not to stable.

Quote. “The journey not the arrival matters.” – T. S. Eliot

One of the worst sounds I can image hearing is the click, click, click when trying to start your car and you are 2500 miles from home. This is what I heard this morning as I went to start the car to fill up with gas before breakfast. I got up about 5:45 as usual, went to the fitness room and rode the tread mill for 15 minutes and then the bike for another 15 minutes. I was feeling good. I had my nook to read but decided I would fill up first so I went to the car and click, click, click. I had left our small refrigerator plugged in throughout the night. We have a large one that we take into the room each night and a small one we keep behind the seat for diet coke and water as we travel. Normally I just unplug the small one. Last night I did not. So what to do. Triple A is the answer, even in Canada. I called and about 45 minutes later a guy showed up and the car started right up. It should, I had everything checked out before the trip even bought a new battery. Frustrated I was but I kept my cool and read while waiting for the battery jumper guy. By the time I started the car, went and got gas, Cassie was just getting to the breakfast room. So I joined her and had a bowl of cereal.

Cassie wants to write about the rest of the day so here she goes.

First of all for those who have been concerned about my health and safety I would like to say that I have completely recovered from my first (and probably my last ) white-water rafting experience (thank you for your prayers!) Also, Tommy and I are still speaking to each other!! Now for today.

I was very excited about today’s drive because “The Guide to the Alaska Highway”, our authoritative source of information, said that this stretch of the highway between Fort Nelson and Watson Lake is some of the most beautiful on all the highway. Going from the lowest point we will ascend quickly to the highest point at Summit Lake (4200 ft.). This is the eastern edge of the Northern Rockies and it is indeed pretty spectacular. The “Guide” said to keep a sharp look-out for mountain sheep because they like to hang out in the rocks and lick the minerals off the road. Almost a guarantee to see these sheep. Well, I kept a sharp look-out but of course no sheep. We keep driving seeing beautiful country and almost no other cars except when we have to stop and slow down for read construction. They are working all along this part of the road.

Before we left this morning I read in the “Guide” that as we come down from the Summit we should be on the watch for buffalo on the road. Also, we begin seeing big signs warning of buffalo on the road ahead. Do we see buffalo?? We drive and drive and no buffalo. I am pretty disappointed but it is a beautiful drive. About 1:00 I am getting hungry. There are very few places to stop and even some of them only have gas and maybe a restroom. I look in the “Guide” and a good place to stop seems to be Liard Hot Springs with camping places and hot springs to soak in. We are about 5 miles from the hot springs when we come around a bend in the road and there in the middle of the road is a mother bear and her 3 cubs!! They slowly walk across the road right in front of the car and then proceed slowly down the side of the road in the grass. Tommy has stopped the car there in the road and he rolls down his window to take pictures as the bears walk by the car!! I am thrilled with our bear encounter but that isn’t all. About a mile on down the road we have to slow down as several large bison (better known as buffalo) amble across the road. It is actually a small herd of buffalo stretched out on both sides of the road. There are several babies in the herd and Tommy manages to get some good pictures. I am satisfied with our wildlife sightings and after stopping for lunch we even see another bear walking in the grass beside. We are truly in bear country.

Cassie got tired of thinking/writing so I will add a little more. About 20 miles past the hot springs the “Guide” said look for a sign marking a small road leading to a waterfall. We saw the sign and followed the road. The road was bad but the waterfall was pretty good. We did not get real close but between trees had a decent view.

As we were leaving Watson Lake we stopped at the Sign Post Park, see photos below. It is very large with signs and license plates from all over.

Next was our destination for the day about 20 miles west of Watson Lake, Nugget City (not really a city), built on land that was once a gold mine. Nugget City is like most places along the Alaska Highway it has a RV Park, gas pumps, café, and gift shop along with a few cabins. The cabin was nice but overpriced. The law of supply and demand at its finest. We had few choices. During planning the first one I selected had bathrooms down the hall, not Cassie’s way of ruffing it.

Another fine day completed. I will post this hopefully in Atlin BC our next stop as Nugget City does not have internet access.